Is it better to buy a cheap airbrush for models and miniatures or an expensive one? Find the best airbrush kits and compressors for scale models and miniatures
First of all, if you’re looking to buy an airbrush for models or miniatures, it is highly recommended to look at the guide on what type of airbrush and compressor are required for modeling. Especially if you are a beginner, this will help you understand the differences between types of airbrushes and what to look for.
There exist two types of airbrushes for modeling:
► Cheap airbrushes (mostly Chinese)
► Quality airbrushes (from brands such as Iwata, Harder & Steenbeck, Paasche or Badger)
Further down we explain the difference between a cheap airbrush (Chinese) and a good one (brand). You can choose the one that best fits your preferences.
If you already know all this stuff, you can go directly to check out the recommended airbrush models and cheap airbrush kits with compressor for modeling.
Secret Bonus: If you wish to see a HUGE and SPECTACULAR model of the Star Wars Millennium Falcon with LED lights and incredible effects... it is somewhere in this post 😉 (may the Force be with you in your search)
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. That means if you buy something we get a small commission at no extra cost to you (learn more). This allows us to keep this website alive.
In this article:
- The Star Wars Millennium Falcon with LED lights (keep on searching)
As you may already know, there are different types of airbrushes according to the type of power, dual or single action, etc.
But what type of airbrush is best suited for scale modeling, painting dioramas and miniatures?
► Paint feed type: Normally airbrushes for modelling are gravity-fed. Some are fed by suction or side feed, but certainly the most used are gravity-fed. Side feed airbrushes allow you to work at difficult angles such as pointing upward, however this is not usually very important for modelling.
► Double/dual or single action: For modelling, ideally you want to use a double action airbrush, i.e. the ones which allow you to control the amount of output air and paint independently. This type is the most recommended for modelling because it is the most versatile, as it allows you to make details as well as layers of base color and primers. Another option is single action airbrushes, which are simpler, and if you want to use it only for primers and uniform color layers or some masking here and there, they may be enough. But usually it is best to get a double action airbrush.
► Nozzle and needle size: For fine details, you will need an approximately 0.2 mm nozzle, and for base paint layers you can use something like a 0.4 mm or more. Some airbrushes are sold with a few different nozzle and needle sets of different calibres, so you can change the spray pattern size depending on the area of the model you are going to paint. This is the case of "2 in 1” airbrushes, and also some airbrush kits that come with replacement nozzles and needles.
Another important point to consider is whether we want a cheap airbrush (Chinese) or a quality one (brand). Next we outline a summary of the differences between a Chinese airbrush and a brand one.
What Air Compresor to use for painting models and miniatures?
► Further down you will find all you need to know about compressors for modelling.
Warning - Hot topic! This issue is so controversial that we have opened a debate on it at the end of this article in the comments section. We invite you to leave your opinion: What do you think is best, buy a cheap airbrush or a brand? (Leave your opinion)
As already explained, there are mainly two (2) types of airbrushes in terms of cost:
- Cheap ones (mostly made in China)
- Those of recognized brands such as Harder & Steenbeck, Iwata, Paasche, Badger or Sparmax
Many people ask this question: Should I buy a cheap airbrush or a good brand airbrush like Iwata, Harder & Steenbeck, Paasche or Badger?
You may have heard the argument, "for the cost of a branded airbrush, I can buy three cheap ones" and "if a Chinese airbrush gets bad or breaks, I just get another one"... right?
The answer is it depends. Here, we’re neither defending one nor the other, since the reality is that both options have their pros and cons.
Pros and cons of buying a cheap airbrush (Chinese) for model kit building:
► These are the main advantages and disadvantages of the cheap airbrush kit option:
- Pros:
- They are cheap.
- Easy to find the complete Kit with compressor and accessories.
- No risk involved. If it breaks, you buy another one and that’s all.
- Sufficient for simple jobs and non-intensive modeling, priming, base colors, masking, where you are not looking for a professional finish.
- Cons:
- Lower durability, as they can break more easily. Be careful, it does not mean it’s definitely going to break, it may break or not, but certainly it doesn’t have the reliability and warranty of a brand airbrush. This is because manufacturing tolerances and materials used in a cheap airbrush are not as high precision and quality as an expensive airbrush. It may be because in a Chinese airbrush the needle bends more easily, or bending it a few tenths of degree is enough for it to cause internal friction, paint accumulates internally and it ends up clogging.
- Chinese airbrushes may show a tendency to clogging more easily, although it is also true that maintenance is the key here because with good maintenance and cleaning we can make an airbrush last for long. Comments such as "after 3 days it stopped working" are often read when referring to chinese airbrushes. This can be the case because the needle got bent, or simply because the internal tolerances are not as precise and the needle rubs internally more than it should, or the trigger’s mechanism gets jammed, etc. But above all, it does not mean that it will forcefully happen to you, it is a bit of a lottery/luck. There are certainly people who have been using a Chinese airbrush for years without issues, either because they don’t give it a very intensive use, or they do proper maintenance, or they just got lucky.
- Difficulty finding spare parts. If it breaks and you can't find spare parts for it, you probably have to buy another one. But hey, since they're cheap airbrushes, it's not a tragedy either.
- Generally do not have internal Teflon seals (something most branded airbrushes do have), so they are not solvent resistant.
- The trigger touch does not transmit the same sense of control and accuracy as in a good airbrush. Those who have tried a good one report the difference in general feeling of control is noticeable.
- They do not possess some other featuers that can be found in quality branded airbrushes, such as a chromed surface finish for those allergic to Nickel, which some brand airbrushes do have.
Pros and cons of buying a branded airbrush for scale modeling and miniatures:
► Buying a branded airbrush also has its pros and cons, which we outline below.
- Pros:
- Precision
- More precise manufacturing tolerances, which is important for a precision instrument like an airbrush
- Easy to clean and dismantle
- Durable
- Availability of spare parts. They are easy to find and are not too expensive, although this depends on the model, because for a precision airbrush like the Iwata Custom Micron certain parts can be more expensive than with other airbrushes. The availability of spare parts for an airbrush ensures that the airbrush will last for long. Even if you drop it and the needle gets bent, no problem, you can buy another one for a few bucks.
- The user experience is different with a branded airbrush. It’s a precision instrument with sense of control and as such the trigger's touch and ultimately paint control is better in a brand airbrush than in a cheap one.
- Cons:
- More expensive
- More difficult to find complete airbrush kits with compressor and accessories, so it is not uncommon to buy the airbrush and the compressor separately. I don't know why manufacturers don't make more airbrush kits with compressor for modeling, but that's the way it is. Many manufacturers sell separate compressors, but do not promote kits as much. Anyway, you can get the compressor separately, so no big deal.
- There are so many models of airbrushes that may get difficult to identify which one to buy. Sometimes it can be difficult to decide which model is most suitable for an application, given the large number of models that exist. But that’s why you have this guide.
Having said that, the choice is yours. Both options can be good, depending on the end results you want to achieve, how much you want to spend, the type of task you want to perform with the airbrush, etc.
If you decide on a brand airbrush, then further down we have reviewed the most used models and the best valued as airbrushes for modeling. If you prefer, you can jump over to see the best cheap airbrush kits.
► What's your take on this issue? Let us know in the debate that we have opened in the comments section.
Let's start with the good brand airbrushes.
These are high quality airbrushes, tried and tested, good enough for amateurs and professionals. They are not the most expensive nor the cheapest airbrushes on the market, but a selection of the best airbrushes in terms of quality-price ratio.
We understand that for hobby modeling in most cases there is no need for a very expensive professional airbrush, but it is always good to get a quality airbrush, reliable and durable, at an affordable price.
These airbrushes are usually sold on their own and the compressor must be purchased separately. Here you can see recommended models of compressors for modelling, so if you don't have a compressor, you can buy the airbrush and the compressor as if it was a kit.
Good value airbrush for model kit building and painting miniatures
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
H&S Ultra characteristics:
The Harder & Steenbeck Ultra Airbrush is the "basic" range of this manufacturer, for this reason it is one of the cheapest branded airbrushes you can get. It's a simple, easy-to-use, low-cost airbrush, making it a good airbrush for modeling.
The Ultra 2 in 1 comes with two sets of nozzles/needles of 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm size respectively, as well as two interchangeable paint cups of 2ml and 5ml. That's why it's called 2 in 1, because changing the tip diameter and the size of the paint cup, we have two configurations, one for finer details and the other for covering larger surfaces, for example to apply primers or base color layers.
Unlike other more expensive models of the same manufacturer, the Ultra does not have the rear regulator that limits paint flow. This is a minor thing, and in exchange the airbrush is cheaper than other models.
It comes with interior Teflon seals, so it is solvent resistant and can be used with solvent-based paints such as automotive paints and lacquers.
► Here you can download the H&S Ultra's official instructions manual.
► Here you can find all the official spare parts for the H&S Ultra.
► Here you can see the price of the Ultra airbrush.
Here, you can see a photo gallery of models painted with the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra airbrush, so you can see the kind of finishes that can be achieved with this airbrush (look especially at the yellow over black, which was achieved in a single pass with the H&S Ultra airbrush using Tamiya acrylic paint reduced to 50%). Images courtesy of John Lundgreen, to whom we thank his collaboration at this point:
Images courtesy of John Lundgreen, expert modeller.
The airbrush is sold separately from the compressor, so if you don't have a compressor, you will need to buy one. We recommend a modelling compressor like the AS-186, FD-186 or FD-189.
Here you can see the price of the Ultra airbrush and the compressor.
A classic in the world of modeling
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS characteristics:
The Iwata Eclipse HP-CS Airbrush is one of the most popular and used modelling airbrushes in the world of modeling.
This airbrush is characterized by its overall quality and well balanced in all respects. It comes with a needle and nozzle of 0.35 mm suitable for fine details. The paint cup is 10ml.
The airbrush is dismantled very easily, just unscrew the back of the handle, remove the piece that holds the needle and remove the needle to clean it. To access the tip of the nozzle, you just need to unscrew the piece from the tip of the airbrush and that's all.
This airbrush has a manufacturing quality that makes it extremely durable, being able to last for years without any problem. You can also find spare parts for it very easily.
Of course the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS also brings internal Teflon seals, making it solvent-resistant and compatible with solvent-based paints.
► Here you can download the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS official instructions manual. It also includes parts breakdown and all spare parts references.
► Here you can see its price.
Pictures of models painted with Iwata Eclipse HP-CS:
Here are some examples of models painted with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush, courtesy of Modeller Alexis Vie, thanks for the collaboration.
Images courtesy of Alexis Vie.
Here you can check the price of the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and that of the recommended compressor.
The AK-47 of airbrushes
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
Badger 105 Patriot characteristics:
The Badger 105 Patriot airbrush is well known by its simplicity, robustness and versatility. It is suitable for both beginners and advanced users. With a single nozzle and needle size, it can handle primers, base coats, and intermediate details.
The Badger 105 Patriot is famous for being able to spray almost any type of paint without clogging, without needing to dilute the paint more than necessary. It can be used for inks, washes, acrylic paints, enamels, lacquers, latex, etc.
It is extremely easy to dismantle and clean. It is sturdy, rarely clogs and is easy to maintain. It has a patented Badger system to remove the needle which is "the fastest on the market" according to the manufacturer (Badger is famous for having multiple patents in their airbrush designs).
It has a protective cap for the tip, which you can put on when you are not using it. This makes it harder to bend the needle accidentally. It also includes a paint cup lid for its generous 10 ml paint cup, to prevent paint from spilling.
The Badger 105 Patriot operates at 30 PSI (2 bar) and can also operate at lower pressures if needed (10-15 PSI, i.e. 0.7-1 bar).
It has inner PTFE seals (Teflon), therefore it’s solvent resistant and it can be used with solvent-based paints such as automotive and lacquers.
► You can download the Badger 105 Patriot's official instructions manual (includes complete exploded view and parts breakdown).
► Here you can see the price of the Badger 105 Patriot airbrush.
Pictures of finished models done with Badger 105 Patriot:
Below you can see a photo gallery of models painted with the Badger 105 Patriot airbrush, so you can see the kind of finishes that you can get with this airbrush. In particular this is a MIG-31 painted by expert modeller Will Dossel where you can see the results. We would like to thank Will Dossel for his collaboration with these spectacular images.
Images courtesy of expert modeller Will Dossel.
This airbrush is sold separately from the compressor. We recommend a modelling compressor like the AS-186, FD-186 or FD-189.
Here you can see the price of the Badger 105 Patriot and that of the compressor.
In case you are wondering what paints to use in order to get the best results for your next modelling project, you can find all you need to know about model paints here:
►►What are the Best Model Paint Kits? (the ones that the Pros are using) <-- A must-read if you are going to be painting model cars, airplanes, tanks or miniatures.
Great quality-price ratio
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
Paasche Talon TG characteristics:
With its distinctive Eagle etched on the paint cup, the Paasche Talon TG is one of the most popular airbrushes for modeling.
Its 0.38 mm nozzle allows fine lines and also large surface coverage. Paasche sells a fan-shaped nozzle adaptor to make wider strokes, however it is not essential for modelling, as the normal airbrush nozzle will do for most of the jobs.
It has a big paint cup of 12ml, the biggest one seen in gravity-fed Airbrushes. This allows you to load enough paint to be able to cover large surfaces as well as large models (like the incredible Millennium Falcon that you can see below).
Another plus is the cool-looking eagle engraving on the paint cup which gives it a spectacular look.
One of the best extras of this airbrush is its chromed finish (the only one in this list that has chromed finish), better than nickel, not only for its spectacular appearance but especially useful for those allergic to Nickel.
In addition it also has a rear adjustment for paint flow.
Interestingly, even with all these extras (chromed surface, rear fit for the paint flow, big paint cup), this airbrush is one of the cheapest among quality branded airbrushes, so it's worth checking out its price.
It is also equipped with Teflon PTFE inner seals, making it fit for use with solvent-resistant and solvent-based paints such as lacquers and automotive.
► Download the instructions manual of the Paasche Talon TG airbrush with the full breakdown and numbered spare parts list.
► Check the price of the Paasche Talon TG.
Pictures of finished models painted with Paasche Talon TG airbrush:
Finally! Here you can contemplate this stunning model as promised: A spectacular modeling mega-project, the Star Wars Millennium Falcon, an absolutely impressive modeling job. A marvel for the lovers of modeling, this model includes LED lights, all interiors are carefully painted, and you can even see R2-D2 inside!
This model was painted with the airbrush Paasche Talon TG, and you can see the base layers painting process, masking, as well as soot and burn effects. Only the initial base layer was painted with spray can, but the entire subsequent process, the exterior panels and the interiors of the model were painted with the Paasche Talon TG airbrush. As a bonus, you can see a "TIE fighter" spacecraft from Star Wars also painted with this Airbrush.
We thank the expert modeller Dan Kraus for sharing this incredible project. Enjoy.
Images courtesy of expert modeller Dan Kraus. From here we thank and congratulate modeller Dan Kraus for this modeling marvel.
Like the above, the airbrush is sold separately from the compressor. If you do not have a compressor, we recommend you to buy a model type compressor like the AS-186, FD-186, FD-189 or similar one.
Here you can see the price of the airbrush Paasche Talon TG (check it out because it is one of the cheapest on this list) and the recommended compressor.
High-end airbrush with the best finish and special functions
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
H&S Infinity 2 in 1 characteristics:
With the Infinity we move to the high range of Harder & Steenbeck, a high quality airbrush, with great precision and exquisite finishes.
The Infinity is a professional airbrush with features that are not found in mid-range airbrushes. For example, it has a "Quick Fix” setting on the back, which allows you to regulate paint flow from the airbrush, a very useful functionality. In addition this control is engraved with numbers, so you can repeatably adjust the level of paint flow to the level you want.
It also has the ability to independently regulate the resistance of the trigger lever, to make it softer or harder to the touch, adjusting to the user's preferences and thus, enabling maximum control and comfort.
The Infinity 2 in 1 comes with two sets of nozzles/needles of 0.15 mm and 0.4 mm thickness respectively, as well as two interchangeable paint cups of 2ml and 5ml. Therefore, it is again a “2 in 1" or "two airbrushes in one", since by changing the output tip diameter and size of the paint cup we have two configurations, one for fine details and the other one for medium and wide surfaces.
The CR Plus version has a beautiful chromed finish which is better than nickel.
Of course the Infinity has inner seals of PTFE (Teflon), which makes it resistant to solvents and it can be used with solvent-based paints.► Here you can download the H&S Infinity official instructions manual. It includes complete parts breakdown, instructions for use and disassembly as well as troubleshooting.
► Here you can see all the official spare parts numbered for the H&S Infinity.
► Here you can see the price of the Infinity 2 in 1 airbrush and also the individual version (only with the 0.15 mm nozzle).
Photos of model kits painted with the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity Airbrush:
Here are some pictures of models painted with the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity Airbrush. The Panzer IV at scale 1/35 is painted with Tamiya paints and the Jeep with a mixture of Tamiya and Vallejo. Images courtesy of Luis Fernando Cabrera Ibarra, whom we thank his collaboration at this point.
Images courtesy of Luis Fernando Cabrera Ibarra.
This airbrush is sold separately from the compressor. A modelling compressor such as FD-186, AS-186, FD-189 or similar is recommended.
Here you can see the price of the compressor.
If you want to know what paints to buy for your next model, this post is for you:
►►What are the Best Model Paint Kits? (the ones that the Pros are using)
(You should read this if you are painting model cars, airplanes, tanks or miniatures)
Airbrush for models and mini-compressor that fits in the palm of your hand
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
The Sparmax HB-040 is a very simple and low cost airbrush from a good brand like Sparmax. This airbrush is specially oriented for modelling and hobbies.
This is the cheapest branded airbrush on this list. It can be found on Amazon at about $/£50.
Sparmax is a good airbrush and compressor manufacturer with great reputation and quality products. The HB-040 is a low cost airbrush, oriented to modelling, illustration and crafts.
It comes with a single nozzle of 0.4 mm, an intermediate size which can work well for primers, base colors and masked base layers, however do not expect to make extremely fine details with this airbrush.
Its design is basic, but at the end of the day, it’s a low cost option which can be good for beginners in airbrushing or simply if you have a reduced budget.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about this airbrush is the compressor that Sparmax recommends for it.
The manufacturer Sparmax recommends using it with the DC-25 portable compressor (image above). The DC-25 compressor is very small, weighs only 400 grams and measures about 10 x 10.5 x 5 centimeters, so it almost fits in the palm of your hand. Despite its reduced dimensions, it is able to deliver 30 PSI of pressure (2 bar).
► Download the Instructions Manual for the Mini-compressor DC-25 where you can clearly see its dimensions, operation and connections.
► Technical specifications of the Mini-compressor DC-25 on the Sparmax official website
► Price of DC-25 Mini-compressor and price of the Sparmax HB-040 airbrush.
Here you can see this airbrush in action (with another compressor).
These are cheap airbrushing kits (mostly Chinese-made) which have pretty much everything you need to paint models and miniatures straight away. Many users are already using them with good results. Despite not being professional airbrushes, they can be used for jobs that do not require high precision and can be a good option for beginners in airbrushing.
The advantage of these kits is, apart from their price, that they also come with a compressor and some useful accessories such as interchangeable nozzles or cleaning accessories for the airbrush.
Some of these kits even come with more than one airbrush, for example a double action and a single action unit in the same pack. These are the most recommended kits for quality-price ratio.
7. Master Airbrush Cool Runner II Dual Fan Air Compressor Professional Airbrushing System Kit with 3 Airbrushes
Best selling airbrush and compressor kit, includes paint, great reviews.
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
Kit features:
This kit is among the top best-selling airbrush kits on Amazon.
It comes with all you need to get started airbrushing straight away. Three airbrushes, compressor with tank and cooling fan, paint bottles and accessories of various kinds.
This kit comes with one double action gravity-fed airbrush, suitable for painting details, shadows and finishes as well as for simpler jobs such as priming, etc.
The airbrush is double action gravity fed and it includes a paint flow limiter and has a handle with an opening in it, which allows you to quickly access the needle, pull it back and thus be able to unclog any possible blockage without opening up the airbrush.
It also comes with nozzles and needles of different sizes for different detail levels: 0.2 mm, 0.3 mm, 0.5 mm and 0.8 mm.
The most important thing about this kit is the compressor. It includes a COMPRESSOR WITH TANK as we have recommended for modeling and the kind you can see in the videos below. It also has a cooling fan which is an important plus, not found in other similar kits.
It is not surprising that this airbrush kit is one the top of the best selling ones.
It is worth noting that the airbrushes in this kit do NOT have inner PTFE (Teflon) seals, so they are not solvent resistant. It is important to keep them clean so that they don’t clog or deteriorate with time, but with good maintenance they can serve you well for a long time.
► Here you can see the price of this airbrush kit.
► Further down you can see a video of the compressor in operation (an equivalent model) where you can get an idea of the noise level of the compressor included in this kit.
Pictures of models painted with low cost airbrush kits:
As we mentioned at the beginning of this article, both generic and branded airbrushes have their own pros and cons.
There is a hot debate about whether it’s preferable to buy a cheap airbrush or an expensive one for modeling. Some prefer to buy a cheap airbrush because with practice you can achieve good enough results and with proper maintenance it can last for long. Meanwhile, others recommend buying a good airbrush upfront as its reliability and durability will make it a better investment in the long run.
However, other from cost considerations, the key question is: can we get good results with a cheap airbrush? Could you notice the difference between a model painted with a cheap airbrush versus one painted with an expensive one?
To answer this question, have a look at the image gallery below and judge by yourself. These are images of models painted with cheap airbrush kits. From here we thank the authors of the modeling projects you can see in this gallery: Darren Hoyle, Tony Mc Keown, James Fisher, Justin Weston and Tomas Drimal of Dreamosh Scale models. Thank you all and congratulations for your amazing skills.
Images courtesy of Darren Hoyle, Tony Mc Keown, James Fisher, Justin Weston and Tomas Drimal of Dreamosh Scale models. Thanks to all of them for their collaboration and congratulations for these awesome models.
A low cost airbrush kit with 3 airbrushes and a tank-less compressor
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
Airbrush kit features:
This airbrushing kit contains all the necessary elements to start painting: Three airbrushes, compressor (without tank) and accessories.
It includes three airbrushes, so that you don’t have to worry too much if one breaks down...
Two airbrushes are double-action, gravity-fed, one with large paint cup and one with a smaller one. The third airbrush is single action and suction-fed, for easy paint jobs. These airbrushes do not have rear paint flow adjustment (usually a wheel at the end of the handle) or PTFE (Teflon) seals.
The compressor is similar to those we have recommended for modeling, except that it has no tank. That's likely part of the reason why this kit is cheaper than the previous one. It does have a cooling fan though. Other than that, it is an acceptable airbrush air compressor for modeling, single-cylinder, 1/5 HP power, maximum pressure 57 PSI, which are quite decent figures for these kind of compressors.
► Here you can see photos, details and price of this kit.
A good low cost kit for beginners in airbrushing
[Click on the image to see it on Amazon]
This basic airbrushing kit features:
To get started in airbrushing with a reduced budget, this kit includes a double action airbrush, compressor (without tank) with auto start/stop function, connection hose and accessories.
The compressor is a pretty standard one, good enough for model building or painting miniatures. It is compact and easy to carry, the only downside is the lack of a tank. Apart from that the compressor has good specifications for modelling, as it is a 1/5 HP power, 57 PSI maximum pressure, auto-start/stop function which causes the compressor to switch on automatically when it detects that the pressure drops below 3 bar and shuts down when it reaches 4 bar.
The airbrush is mounted with a 0.3 mm nozzle and it comes with and air connection hose and accessories.
► Here you can check the price of this kit.
Don't expect wonders from this one, but if you are looking for something REALLY cheap...
Kit features:
This airbrush kit is what some would call "ultra-low cost".
It includes a mini-compressor just like those that fit into the palm of your hand. Obviously don’t expect the same performance as a more powerful compressor with a tank, but for beginners in airbrushing or simply to test the waters, this could be an option.
At an ultra reduced price, the kit includes all the necessary parts to do some basic airbrushing: A double action airbrush, mini-compressor, connecting hose, nozzles and needles of various sizes, cleaning brushes, droppers, etc.
If you want the cheapest or lowest-risk option, this kit can be for you, and later on if you want you can upgrade to a more sophisticated kit.
► Here you can see pictures of the kit and its ridiculous price.
What type of air compressor is required for model kit building? How much pressure? How much power should it have? With or without tank? Let's try to clarify these issues so that you may know what kind of compressor to buy for modeling.
First of all, we recommend that you watch this excellent video about airbrushing compressors for beginners in modeling, which shows you all the parts of an AS-186 compressor similar to those commonly used in modelling. From this you can get an idea of the noise level and also you will understand how the thing operates.
Watch the above video first. This is one of the most important points. For modelling, ideally the compressor should have a tank. This does not mean that you can’t use a tank-less compressor. But the fact is that the tank makes a noticeable difference on the compressor when it comes to painting models.
What the boiler does is to store compressed air, in such a way that the engine stays on until air fills the tank and then it switches off automatically. You then work with the airbrush, pulling the air from the tank reservoir, instead of having the compressor engine running all the time.
An important point to note is that at the end of the painting session it is recommended to empty the air in the tank by using an air drain valve which comes with the compressor (the red valve you can see in the video). This also serves as a safety valve to avoid excessive pressure in the tank that could be dangerous.
► First of all, the tank prevents the pulsation (or vibration) of the output air. That is, the pressure of the air coming out of the airbrush is more constant as the tank is supplying it (as if it was an air balloon that deflates gradually). The air therefore does not come directly from the compressor piston, as this would come out with pulsation due to the alternating compression and decompression movement made by the piston during operation. For modeling, constant air pressure output (as opposed to pulsating air) is an advantage, because without pulsation the air comes out steadier, more smooth and controlled. As such, the airbrush "spits" less paint, facilitating a more uniform finish.
► Secondly, a tank-mounted compressor switches on less often, producing less noise, less heat and less wear (it will last longer). The compressor will only switch on to fill up the receiver tank when the pressure inside the tank falls below a certain level, but once the tank is full of air, the compressor will switch off. Therefore when we press the airbrush trigger, we take air out from the tank, and the compressor piston only switches on from time to time in order to refill the tank.
► Thirdly, a tank-mounted compressor has the advantage that it produces dry air with less humidity in it, since the air humidity condenses and falls back into the tank without getting to the airbrush. Again, this is good for modeling (and any application) since ideally you want the air coming out of your airbrush as dry as possible, because any little drop of moisture would get mixed up with the paint producing splashes and imperfections as you paint. In short, the tank acts as an extra moisture trap. For this reason, you have to occasionally drain or "purge" the receiver tank, which means to remove the moisture from inside the tank. This is accomplished with a small valve that comes with it. You open the valve, letting the few drops of condensed water come out of the tank, then you close the valve again.
The noise level produced by the air compressor is a major concern for many modeling enthusiasts, especially for those trying to paint models at home late at night or in an apartment.
A reasonable noise level is between 47dB and 59dB, which are fairly standard figures for compressors commonly used in modeling such as the AS-186, AS-196, Fengda FD-186 -186, etc.
Again, if the compressor has a receiver tank, it will make less noise, or at least it will make noise for a shorter period of time. This is because the compressor piston will only have to switch on when it needs to fill up the air tank.► Do you want to hear the sound coming out of an air compressor commonly used for models and miniatures? Watch the video below to get an idea of the noise level of a standard compressor.
Normally, for modelling, you would regulate the compressor’s output pressure level at about 2 or 3 bar approximately.
Although this depends on the airbrush model and the paint you use (if the paint is more diluted, you need less pressure, and vice versa). For example an airbrush like the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS works at an approximate pressure range of 25-35 PSI (1.7-2.4 bar), while another model like the Iwata HP-C Plus may work at 15-25 PSI (1-1.7 bar), and the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra at 15-43 PSI (1-3 bar), and so on.
Usually the compressor specifies the maximum pressure that it can generate, but that doesn’t mean that you will be working at the maximum pressure level all the time. For example if the compressor specifies that it can produce a maximum of 57 PSI (4 bar) or 87 PSI (6 bar), it doesn’t mean you will work at that pressure all the time, but rather it gives you an idea of the maximum pressure that it can reach and secondly, how quickly will it reach a certain pressure.
You shouldn’t be confused with the maximum pressure number displayed on the manometer either. The manometer may indicate up to 7 bar or more, but that does not mean that the compressor can reach that pressure.The power of the compressor’s motor determines the capacity that the compressor has to generate pressure. For example, a compressor may have around 1/5 HP, or 1/4 HP or even 3/4 HP for more powerful compressors. Generally speaking we will be more interested in knowing the output air pressure of the compressor than in the power rating.
Oil-free piston compressors have either one or two pistons or cylinders. In general, more pistons makes it easier for the compressor to generate the required pressure, in other words, more power. Also if we were to use a tank-less compressor, a two-piston compressor would be better since the air output would have less pulsation than a on single-piston compressor (in the absence of a receiver tank).
Usually in twin-piston compressors each piston has to work less hard than in single cylinder compressors, therefore, wear of each piston will be lower, leading to longer lifetime for the compressor. Two cylinder air compressors are generally a bit more expensive than single-piston models.
A regulator is a device that causes the output pressure (the one going to the airbrush) to be constant and at a certain level. It has a control knob that allows you to regulate the output pressure to the level that you want (for example 2.5 bar).
A manometer is the needle-like indicator showing the air pressure output level.
The moisture trap is the device that comes in a small transparent blister and serves for capturing moisture in the output air. It condenses the air humidity in the moisture trap, so that the air going out into the airbrush comes out dry. This is important for the output air to be as dry as possible, because if moisture is mixed with the paint inside the airbrush, it can cause splashes, drops and the finish won't be as good.
Some compressors come with a cooling fan installed, like the one you can see in the picture. Cooling down the compressor’s motor means that you can use on longer painting sessions, avoiding overheat, and it will also increase the compressor's lifetime.
The compressors that we have seen so far can weigh around 3 to 5 kg, depending on the model, whether it has a tank or not, etc. Even these are quite easy to carry, they can be placed on top of a desk and they do not take up much space.
In the case of a mini-compressor, the compressor size is greatly reduced. These are less powerful compressors but their main advantage is that they are so much smaller. For example the one seen in the image below, the Sparmax DC-25 mini compressor, measures only 10 x5 x 10.5 cm, and weighs only 400 grams.
For most applications you will want to use a normal compressor, if possible with an air receiver tank. But a mini-compressor can be an acceptable solution in some situations. If you are on a reduced budget, or if you want a very small compressor or if you don't need too much pressure, then a mini-compressor may be just fine for you.
If it is a piston compressor without oil or a diaphragm one, it does not require any special maintenance. The only thing is if it is a tank-mounted compressor, then you just have to purge it from time to time to clear the moisture from the tank, and at the end of each session empty the air from the tank using the safety valve that comes with it.
The following compressor models are recommended for scale modelling, painting miniatures, etc.
Iwata-Medea Studio Series Sprint Jet Single Piston Air Compressor. High quality, good performance, quiet and reliable compressor.
Wrapping up...
In this article:
Still don't know which airbrush to buy? We answer your questions.
We hope this will help you clear up some doubts about which airbrush and compressor to buy for modeling.
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the pilots’ seats need replacing; they are worn and dirty! You posted pictures of that hunk of junk?! You’re braver than I thought.
It’s the fastest hunk of junk in the Galaxy!
Excelent text. It was really what I need to start in the world of modeling paint with airbrush.
Just one question:
– Is it possible to use the standard compressor we use for big stuff ? Mine is a 2,5 HP with a tank of 25 liters.
Maybe with adapters ??
Thank you.
Fernando Gomes
Hi Fernando,
You can probably use your compressor, as long as it has the appropriate output adaptor and a pressure regulator and manometer.
The pressure regulator on the output of your compressor is important. Each airbrush will work at a specified pressure range, for example if you have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS you may need an approximate output pressure range of 25-35 PSI (1.7-2.4 bar). This means that the airbrush doesn’t work at the maximum un-regulated output pressure of your compressor, but at a regulated level, that’s why you need the pressure regulator.
Other than that, a compressor like what you describe should work fine for airbrushing, the fact that it’s more powerful (2.5HP) only means that the pistons have to work less hard, or that it takes them less time to fill the receiver tank with air, and the larger 25 litre tank will also be an advantage as it only means that you have more time to airbrush without the compressor turning on. The disadvantage will be the larger size and weight of your compressor (it’s heavier and you can’t move it around as easily).
In fact, I have seen airbrush kits that come with an air compressor like yours (here), although it’s not the go-to choice for modeling, but it can do the trick.
Hope this helps.
Looking for an airbrush kit for painting shoes specifically .3mm brush with compressor low cost and reliable I like the badger by the looks of it
Hi,
Here is a list of airbrush kits with 0.3mm nozzle size that you can use:
Badger Badger Patriot 105 Xtreme
Badger Sotar 20/20-1M
Badger Sotar 20/20-2M
Badger Renegade Rage (0.33mm)
Harder & Steenbeck -Hansa 381 chrome – Topline
Harder & Steenbeck – Hansa 381 black – Topline
Harder & Steenbeck – Hansa 481 Set – Hobbyline
Harder & Steenbeck – Hansa 681 – Hobbyline
Sparmax DH-3
Sparmax DH-103
Sparmax MAX-3
These are all pretty solid airbrush brands. For the compressor, you can use any of the ones recommended on this post.
Hope this helps.
Hello very good article with a lot of great information but you left out a complete style of the airbrush. The style I am referring to is the ones with a pistol grip. I would very much like to know what you think the best name brand one would be. I only paint scale model car kits normally the 1/24 & 1/25 scale. I use several different types of paint. I use the Model Master brand, I also use various types of rattle can paint that I decant and spray through the airbrush. I use things like Dupl-Color, Krylon, and other various brands. I spray primers, base coats, and clear coats.
Hi Terry,
I guess you refer to spray pistols, Sparmax and Iwata have some good airbrushes with spray pistol or spray gun format which can be quite ergonomic and comfortable to spray paint with. Please have a look at the Sparmax GP-35 which has a trigger grip along with side feed cups for quick and easy color change. That’s a good general purpose airbrush for models and other hobby applications, etc. If you prefer gravity feed, you can get an Iwata Revolution HP-TR2 or Iwata G-Series G6 airbrush gun, good quality as everything Iwata does, PTF seals, etc. Hope this helps.